Entries Tagged 'Internet' ↓

Letter From EFF on Net Neutrality

If you don’t know about the Electronic Frontier Foundation, here is an e-mail request I just received from them to sign a petition to the FCC.  It would be great if you could do it as well, it’s important.  Here’s the letter, the link is at the bottom for the petition.  Thanks!

“Last fall, the Federal Communications Commission proposed rules for “Net Neutrality” — a set of regulations intended to help innovation and free speech continue to thrive on the Internet.

But is the FCC’s version of Net Neutrality the real deal? Or is it a fake?

Buried in the FCC’s rules is a deeply problematic loophole. Open Internet principles, the FCC writes, “do not…apply to activities such as the unlawful distribution of copyrighted works.”

For years, the entertainment industry has used that innocent-sounding phrase — “unlawful distribution of copyrighted works” — to pressure Internet service providers around the world to act as copyright cops — to surveil the Internet for supposed copyright violations, and then censor or punish the accused users.

From the beginning, a central goal of the Net Neutrality movement has been to prevent corporations from interfering with the Internet in this way — so why does the FCC’s version of Net Neutrality specifically allow them to do so?

Go to the Real Net Neutrality petition to tell the FCC that if it wants to police the Internet, it first needs to demonstrate that it can protect Internet users and innovators by standing up to powerful industry lobbyists. Sign your name to demand that the copyright enforcement loophole be removed:


Electronic Frontier Foundation”

Encrypt Your Email Address On Your Website

No one likes spam, except spammers.  When you put an email address on a website for the world to see, you expect that a human will be sending you something interesting to read.  What you get is a bunch of robots telling you how cheap they can sell you something to make your junk bigger, or your butt smaller.  
I found this sweet website that will let you put in your email address and a link text (what people will see), then hit submit and it hooks you up, right there, with an HTML encrypted anchor tag to copy and paste onto your website.  Sweet.  I’ve seen programs that do this, but this way there is no need to download anything. Robots won’t read it, but humans can. People can even click on it to open their mail application. Nice.

Here’s the link: Mysterious Ways

Separate Public and Private Wireless Network Using Two Routers

How to create a separate public and private wireless network using 2 routers

Setting up a separate public and private wireless network is not that complicated. It involves basic setup of a router, and its wireless network. In order to create the two separate networks, you set up both routers (R1 and R2), their wireless networks, and plug R2’s WAN port into one of the LAN ports on the back of R1. The networks will essentially be separate, but use a single modem (the same ISP connection for the Internet.)  I created a separate public and private network using this method for a client’s restaurant. The client did not want customers to have access to the private network, yet still wanted to provide a wireless hotspot for patrons.

As far as firmware goes, I recommend using DD-WRT’s firmware and a compatible router, which you can find a list of here: DD-WRT.  Not mandatory by any means, as you should be able to set up separate wireless networks with the stock firmware of just about any router on the market.  By following my setup, you will completely separate the public and private networks, other than access to the private router’s login page from the public network.  Be sure to set a strong password for both routers’ login information, which is mandatory no matter where you’re setting up a network.  If you have a couple of routers on hand and this isn’t clear enough, feel free to shoot me an email describing your setup, and I’ll do the best I can to walk you through that model’s setup screens.

Step 1: First, set up the private router (R1).  I usually do this disconnected from the Internet, by simply plugging an ethernet cable into the switch on the back of the router.  No need to connect to the WAN port yet.  Access your router’s login screen. Login and immediately change the password, make sure it is strong (upper and lowercase letters, at least one number, and a special character or two).

Step 2: Apply your settings, and login using the new password, if necessary.  Next, choose your router name, your IP range (I’m using 10.0.10.x for this setup), and turn on the DHCP server.  You can also set the number of clients, etc.  Set R1′s address to the first addressable host (x.x.x.1) on your IP range, for ease of remembering where it is.  I use for my start range on DHCP because I like to leave a lot open for static IP’s; this allows plenty of room for printers, NAS storage, servers, etc.

Step 3: Next, set up the wireless portion of the R1 ( if you want wireless capability on the private network) This can also be set to “off” should you not require wireless setup.  You absolutely want a very strong passphrase (something like, n0W1rel3$$4U) on your private wireless network (use WPA, not WEP if you can). There’s no sense in going through the trouble of having a second, public router, only to leave your wireless access open.  You can leave the SSID set to broadcast, but this allows people to see the wireless network and attempt to connect.  This shouldn’t be a problem so long as you have a strong password.  Leaving broadcast “off” will not stop someone from finding it if they really want to, however, so the encryption still needs to be on.

Step 4: You can now plug in your WAN port from R1 to your modem, and verify you have access to the internet.  Check your wireless as well, to be sure everything is working as it should.

Step 5: Next, you want to setup your public network on your second router (R2).  Again, leave the router disconnected from the R1, simply plug in your computer to a port on the back of R2 and navigate to its setup screen in your browser.  If you also have a wireless connection (such as setting this up from a laptop) be sure to turn it off for now, as you will not need it.  This is especially true if you used wireless to set up the first router, as it might confuse the network connections and not allow you access to the setup screen on the second router.

Step 6: Set up a new username (if your router allows it) and password, and save your settings.  Next, setup the network address.  If you followed my first router setup and used 10.0.10.x for R1, use 192.0.10.x for R2. Again, set the router’s address to the first addressable host (  Turn DHCP on, and setup your maximum clients, and your DHCP range.  You could probably set this to if you don’t need static IPs on the public network.  If you are going to have a public accessible printer, set it to, so you can have a few static IPs if you ever need them.

Step 7: Apply your settings, and log back into the R2 by going to the router’s new address in your browser.  It is highly recommended to set the R2′s WAN PORT to STATIC IP and set the address to something R1, outside of the DHCP range. See the screenshot below (click to enlarge).  Basically, I set it up to be the second host on the router’s network,  The gateway will be, subnet mask

WAN LAN Setup Screen Public Router

WAN LAN Setup Screen Public Router

Step 8: Apply your settings, and you can now set up the SSID (be sure to pick a name different from the private router) and client type for your public network.  If you want people to be able to access it, leave the encryption off, and broadcast the SSID.  You may want to look into a hotspot server, such as set up a DD-WRT enabled router with Chillispot, but that is out of the scope of this post. To really make this work efficiently, you may want to set the channels of both routers apart (i.e., one to channel 1 and one to channel 11), but you can also leave them on auto.  Another idea might be to have the public network on the 5ghz spectrum, as it would get less interference from surrounding networks and give your clients a better experience.  An Airport Extreme or a TRENDnet TEW-672GR offer dual band functionality, although you sacrifice not being able to run the DD-WRT firmware with either of those.

Step 9: Finally, disconnect your computer from the R2.  Plug R2’s WAN port into one of the switch ports on R1.  You can now use a wireless connection to verify internet connectivity through the public router’s SSID.

Step 10:  You should probably reboot everything at this point.  Power down the modem and both routers. Leave off for 30 seconds, and plug the modem in again.  Allow it to fully boot, then turn on the first router, allow it to fully boot.  Turn on the second router, and you should be good to go.

Use Two Routers To Separate N and G Wireless Network Clients

[If you'd like to completely separate the G and N clients, set up the two routers to use the different SSIDs, and follow the instructions here for setting the second router to a Static IP from the first router.]

I had this problem, however strange, of a mixed wireless G and N network, where my MacBook Pro would drop its internet connection, or become really slow whenever my wife booted up her Asus Windows laptop.  My assumption was because her laptop was 802.11G, and mine was 802.11N.  I use a DD-WRT equipped Linksys WRT-350N for my home use and didn’t want to switch to G-only wireless.

What I figured I could do is similar to what I’ve done in the past, separate my  wireless network to two different routers.  What I didn’t want, though, is to have a separate network for the connection.  I didn’t know if it would work, but I had a Buffalo router laying around and figured it was worth a shot.

First you set up your router as you normally would, in my case it’s DD-WRT, but this should work on the standard Linksys firmware as well.  I have a cable connection, so my router gets its address via DHCP from Optimum Online.  You are going to want the first router to handle DHCP.  I set the DHCP to the second half of the IP range for the subnet (, although this really only matters if you want to worry about setting up subnets. I don’t really do anything with subnets either, but I do have both routers, three printers, and a LaCie NAS, all with static IP’s.  This way I don’t have to worry about my setting a static IP in the DHCP range, which could cause problems.

So the first router (the DHCP server) I set to the IP, the gateway to, and the Local DNS to  This is the first available address in that IP range.  Turn the DHCP on, set the range to, and the number of clients to whatever you think you may need (25 to 50 should be fine, if you’re doing this for your house.)

Basic Router Settings--Router 1

Basic Router Settings--Router 1

Next, setup the wireless N network.  Under the Wireless tab, Basic Settings, fill in your SSID.  Wireless mode is AP(access point), Wireless Network Mode will be N only (or G only if this is your G router.)  See screen shot below:

Wireless Settings--Router Connected to Modem

Wireless Settings--Router Connected to Modem

Don’t forget to setup the WPA encryption in the Wireless–> Wireless Security tab.

Next, you will set up the second router to be an access point in tandem with the first router, only to be a N (or G…opposite of whatever you did for router 1) only host.  You want the WAN port set to disable, and you want to set its gateway as (or whatever address you decided on for the first router.)  The IP address for the router, which I set to, which would be the last addressable range in that subnet if I decided to set that up. Technically it would be the broadcast address for the .0 address range of the /25 subnet, but that’s why I did it. So I’d remember.  Nevertheless, here are screenshots of the second router, now set up as a regular access point serving G-only clients:

Router 2 Setup

Router 2 Setup

Router 2 Wireless Settings

Router 2 Wireless Settings

The SSID is different, although I did make the WPA key exactly the same.  This way you don’t have to worry about managing people coming over, they get one key for their iPhone, laptop, whatever, and the network hands it an address from the appropriate router.  Seamless.  This has stopped my connection issue, and my link is a consistent 130Mbps (it used to fluctuate wildly from 36Mbps to 78Mbps) on my MacBook Pro. No more dropped connections, either.

Also, for all of your shares it still works, because the actual network is still the same.  Everyone will still be addressed to the network.  Meaning, all of your shares still work without issues, even though the wireless clients are on two different SSIDs, they are still connected to the same network.  Beautiful!